Hello. My name is Fujito, and I’m one of the sushi chefs at REONA Sushi Tokyo. Before we begin, let me briefly introduce myself. I’ve spent years training in the art of sushi across Japan—in Osaka, Ginza, Aoyama, and other regions. My parents also ran a sushi restaurant, so I grew up with sushi chefs as familiar figures in my life.
Driven by my deep love for sushi, I wanted to do more than just serve delicious sushi—I wanted people to understand why sushi is delicious. That’s why I teamed up with like-minded professionals to open REONA Sushi Tokyo. Together with Mr. Hishiya, a top-tier sushi master who once served Rokusaburo Michiba of "Iron Chef" fame, we aim to make REONA a cultural center for sharing the traditions of sushi.
Among all sushi toppings, tuna—maguro—is by far the most beloved. It's an essential part of Edo-style sushi and plays a key role in the courses we serve at REONA, where guests can enjoy several different cuts and preparations of this iconic fish.
In this article, I’d like to share insights into the types and preparation techniques of maguro used in Edo-style sushi. If you’re interested in sushi, I encourage you to read on. The next time you’re in Tokyo, pay close attention to the different kinds of tuna. It will make your sushi experience even more flavorful and fascinating.
And of course, if you reserve our sushi culture experience course, “RIKAI,” at REONA Sushi, you’ll get to learn and taste these differences firsthand through both experience and explanation. We offer the most enjoyable and accessible way to truly understand sushi—so we hope you’ll join us soon!
Do you love tuna? Many people in Japan would say, “Sushi means tuna.” That’s how popular it is. And now that sushi has become a global cuisine, tuna has earned international acclaim as well.
Historically, tuna was plentiful in the coastal waters around Japan and had been consumed since ancient times. However, it wasn’t always regarded as high-quality. In fact, it was once considered low-grade and largely unpopular.
Why? Because tuna deteriorates quickly, and in times before refrigeration, very few people ever had the chance to taste it at its best. The fatty parts, which we now prize as toro, were routinely discarded.
But everything changed about 300 years ago with the rise of Edo-style sushi—street food crafted for the working-class people of Tokyo. Sushi chefs began developing ways to preserve and enhance the flavor of fish that would otherwise go to waste. One breakthrough was the technique of "zuke," where lean tuna is marinated in soy sauce.
Soy sauce has a high salt content that inhibits bacterial growth and slows spoilage, while its umami-rich flavor enhances the taste. Through this method, tuna became more accessible, and people began to appreciate its unique fatty richness and savory, meaty flavor—qualities that weren’t found in other fish.
The popularity of tuna grew in tandem with sushi culture itself. Sushi revealed tuna’s hidden potential, turning what was once considered unpalatable into a star ingredient. Its impact was profound. For Tokyo locals, tuna became a symbol of sushi itself.
As tuna's popularity soared, so too did the innovation in how it was caught, preserved, transported, and prepared. These collective efforts solidified its status as the undisputed king of sushi.
So how exactly is this King of Sushi enjoyed in Japan’s finest sushi restaurants? Let’s look at how we professionals treat the different parts of a tuna fish and the techniques we use to bring out their best.
As professionals, we divide tuna into many detailed cuts, as shown in the diagram below.
Each cut has unique characteristics, and how it is sliced or handled can vary greatly. That said, listing every single cut would overwhelm customers. That’s why we simplify things into more approachable categories for diners.
Below, I’ll introduce the most essential and widely enjoyed types of tuna sushi. There are many variations, but if you're coming to Japan, missing out on these would be a real shame.
At REONA Sushi, our RIKAI course lets you try and compare several tuna cuts and preparation methods that every tuna lover should experience. If you're curious about maguro sushi, read this guide and then come see us to taste the difference for yourself.
Let’s start with Otoro, the fattiest and most luxurious cut of tuna. This cut is highly prized and comes only from certain types of tuna, like Bluefin and Southern Bluefin. Moreover, only a small portion of a whole tuna yields true Otoro.
Take a look at the diagram below—you’ll see just how little of a giant tuna qualifies as Otoro. Only a tiny section from the largest tuna makes the cut for this grade.
It’s the fattiest part of the fish, making it the king within the king—the true royalty of sushi.
This preparation lets you enjoy the unadulterated richness of tuna fat. The luxurious mouthfeel and melt-in-your-mouth texture are truly special. However, due to its high fat content, eating several pieces might feel heavy.
Aburi Otoro is a must-try preparation. Despite its bold look, the searing process is carefully controlled to bring out the best in the fish without cooking it through. The goal is to lightly melt the fat, drawing out its natural sweetness while maintaining a silky texture.
This method is only possible because of Otoro's high fat content. If you find this at a sushi restaurant in Tokyo—don’t hesitate. At REONA Sushi Tokyo, Aburi Otoro is a signature piece we proudly include near the end of our course, leaving a lasting impression.
Next, let’s talk about Akami, the lean part of the tuna. It’s the most abundant portion of the fish, making it the most affordable, but that doesn’t mean it lacks quality.
In fact, many sushi aficionados in Japan name Akami as their favorite. Yasu, the founder of REONA and Japan’s largest tour brand MagicalTrip, is one of them. Why? Because it’s where you can fully taste the meaty richness of the tuna.
The flavor and texture of Akami vary significantly depending on the tuna’s quality, making it a great indicator of a sushi restaurant’s skill.
A good piece of Akami has a moist, tender texture and a deep flavor that unfolds as you chew. It’s rich yet refreshing—perfect for tuna lovers who want to eat piece after piece.
Zuke is a traditional Edo-style preparation where lean tuna is marinated in soy sauce. Originally developed to extend shelf life, it also enhances flavor. The marinated tuna takes on a deep ruby color, smooth texture, and explodes with umami.
It’s a true invention of Edo-style sushi and a must-try when visiting Japan. At REONA Sushi Tokyo, we always include Zuke Akami in our course.
Tekka Maki is a simple roll made with tuna and nori (seaweed). High-quality nori is fragrant, and when combined with tuna, it creates an elegant harmony. This roll was invented as a way to use leftover cuts of Akami, ensuring none of the precious fish goes to waste.
Finally, we have Chutoro—the perfect balance between Otoro and Akami. This cut combines the richness of fat with the depth of lean meat, resulting in a perfectly harmonious bite.
In my experience, many gourmet sushi lovers say Chutoro is their absolute favorite. While Otoro has dramatic appeal, Chutoro may be the true crowd favorite.
Chutoro is best enjoyed raw. It has enough flavor on its own that it doesn’t need soy sauce or additional seasoning. Unlike Otoro, its lower fat content means it doesn’t fare as well when seared—it can become too firm. Trust me, raw is the way to go.
One Chutoro-based roll I must recommend is Toro-Taku Maki. This roll combines finely chopped pieces of Chutoro with “takuan,” a traditional pickled radish, then wraps it all in seaweed.
It’s an incredible flavor combination and a truly delicious roll. If you haven’t seen or tried it before, you’re in for a treat. Don’t miss it when you visit Japan!
Now, let’s talk about the different types of maguro used in sushi. You might be surprised to learn how many kinds of tuna are actually used in sushi—from incredibly expensive varieties to more affordable ones, each with its own character and charm.
Of course, premium tuna tends to be delicious, but among sushi chefs, there's a common belief: expensive doesn’t always mean better. That’s because price is influenced by supply and demand—if supply is limited, even good-quality tuna can be hard to come by.
Instead of judging solely by price, I encourage you to try a variety of tunas and explore the unique flavors each one offers. That’s the real joy of maguro.
Let’s begin with the king of tuna: bluefin, or "Hon Maguro" in Japanese. This variety, also known as Kuro Maguro, is the most prized in high-end sushi restaurants and comes with a high price tag.
The best Hon Maguro has beautifully marbled fat and includes rare cuts suitable for Otoro sushi. Despite its richness, the flavor of the fat is surprisingly delicate and refined, and when combined with its silky texture, it brings pure joy to the palate.
In Japan, domestic bluefin—caught in Japanese waters and never frozen—is considered the highest quality. Since freezing can damage texture, fresh Hon Maguro delivers an unparalleled mouthfeel.
At REONA, we often use Hon Maguro for our tuna, selecting the best from the market ourselves.
Next is southern bluefin, or Minami Maguro. What sets this tuna apart is the intensity of its flavor—both in its fatty parts and its lean red meat.
Like Hon Maguro, it’s one of the rare varieties from which true Otoro can be taken. Compared to Hon Maguro, its flavor is more robust and bold. Some people prefer this richness, while others prefer the elegance of bluefin—ultimately, it comes down to personal taste.
If you’re seeking a deep, indulgent flavor, Minami Maguro is an excellent choice. It’s also a staple in many high-end sushi restaurants. We often source it at REONA as well, and personally, I’m a big fan.
Then we have Mebachi Maguro — more affordable than Hon Maguro or Minami Maguro, yet packed with potential. Among sushi chefs and enthusiasts, there’s a saying: “A top-quality bigeye can surpass even Hon Maguro.”
If you're lucky enough to encounter excellent Mebachi Maguro, its lean meat can be intensely flavorful, and its fat can rival even the finest Hon Maguro in creaminess. Unfortunately, such top-tier Mebachi Maguro is rare.
That said, many local sushi shops use Mebachi Maguro, and the quality can vary greatly depending on how skilled the restaurant is at sourcing and handling it. In that sense, Mebachi Maguro is a bit of a wild card—but a rewarding one when it's good.
Yellowfin, or Kihada Maguro, is often used in conveyor belt sushi and more casual sushi shops. It has a light, clean taste, which many people find refreshing—especially in the lean cuts.
On the downside, its texture tends to be firmer than other tuna types, and because the fish are generally smaller, they store less fat. That means it’s almost impossible to get a true Chutoro or Otoro cut from Kihada Maguro.
Still, that doesn’t make it bad fish. In fact, Kihada Maguro is one of the most familiar tunas to people in Japan—it’s the “everyday tuna” and has its own place in sushi culture.
Last but not least is albacore tuna, or Bincho Maguro. Even more affordable than yellowfin, Kihada Maguro, it’s widely caught in temperate and subtropical waters around the world and is available year-round.
Its signature feature is its light pink color, which sometimes resembles Chutoro—but make no mistake, it’s lean meat, not fatty. Outside of its peak season in winter, it usually contains very little fat.
Taste-wise, it’s similar to Kihada Maguro: light and clean. It’s very common in Japanese supermarkets and might be the tuna you’ve already encountered in daily meals. For home preparation, marinating lean bincho in soy sauce to make a simple zuke dish is a great option.
As we've explored, there are many different cuts and types of tuna, and countless ways to prepare them.
At REONA Sushi Tokyo, we go to the fish market ourselves several times a week—not placing online orders, but actually showing up in person to hand-select the finest tuna available.
While it's possible these days to purchase fish online, those who make the effort to visit the market in person are given priority access to the best cuts. That’s why we never cut corners—we believe that sourcing is part of our craft.
Thanks to this approach, we’re able to offer you carefully selected cuts of Akami, Chutoro, and Otoro in our sushi culture experience course, “RIKAI”, prepared in the most suitable style for each cut. You’ll be able to directly compare them, taste the differences, and understand what makes each one special.
The sushi is prepared by skilled chefs, including myself, and the full experience is guided in English by our service manager, Moemi. We believe this is a truly special opportunity—one that’s both educational and memorable. If you're visiting Tokyo, we warmly invite you to join us.
REONA Sushi is strictly reservation-only, with just a few seats available for each session. If you’re interested, we highly recommend making your reservation as early as possible using the link below.
We’ll be waiting to welcome you in Kanda—Tokyo’s historical cradle of sushi culture.
To finish, let me share a few insights into the special relationship between sushi chefs and tuna.
By now, I hope you understand just how important tuna is in the world of Edo-style sushi. And as you might imagine, it's treated with particular reverence by sushi chefs as well.
Of course, one reason is its high price—but more importantly, the process of breaking down a large tuna into specific cuts requires an exceptional level of knowledge, experience, and precision. Opportunities to practice this skill are rare, and mastering it takes years.
That’s why sushi apprentices aren’t allowed to handle tuna until they’ve undergone significant training. It took me years before I could confidently serve high-quality tuna sushi to guests, and even now, I continue to refine my skills. Cutting tuna well is not something you can master easily—there’s always more to learn.
At REONA, our head chef Mr. Hishiya is a true master when it comes to tuna. He is the one who handles the butchering of our tuna, ensuring every cut is perfect.
In a way, learning to handle tuna properly is like a final exam for any sushi chef. It’s the ultimate challenge—and also the ultimate joy.
